這篇文主要節錄於International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 2–30
這篇文獻做大略上的翻譯，我想除了關注各別成分的防曬能力，對於過往這些成分造成
的問題可能要更為重要，畢竟 "先研究不傷身體，再講究效果" 嘛！
雖然每個成分多少都有過敏病例發生，但相對那些高致敏性的成份，還是比較安全
的，另外也需考慮肌膚的健康度、配方的適當性以及個人體質等等，所以也不需因有幾
例的過敏而恐慌，重點還是選擇相對安全的成份，若發生問題時，再尋求醫師協助。
網頁好讀版: http://tinyurl.com/o2qu264
以下正文開始....
化學性防曬成分可以根據他們的吸收波長範圍大略分為UVA filter和UVB filter，這些
成分大都是帶有C=O共軛雙鍵的苯環，他們的吸收範圍和能力都因接的官能基不同而不一樣
。[1]
由於新推出的防曬成分和科學上的研究結果，所以在過去20年所使用的成份一直在改
變。作者為了瞭解在德國2013和2014年最常使用的防曬成分，特地從市面上比較了178個
防曬產品，137個保養品(乳液、護手霜、彩妝)和47個具防曬功能的護唇產品。並將這些
成分根據他們的分子結構分為以下8類:
http://imgur.com/Z6L4yEe
二苯甲醯甲烷類 Dibenzoylmethane derivatives
在德國，Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM,Avobenzone)是最常見的UVA
filter，他存在於大部分的化妝品和80%的防曬產品中。BMDBM取代了在1993年停產的高致
敏性的4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethae (I-DBM)，但可惜的是BMDBM本身也有致敏性。
[2,3]
http://imgur.com/m4qeGU0
當BMDBM和ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) 合用時，很容易造成光裂解
(photodegradation)，裂解的產物可能會引起過敏[4]，不過可以藉由配方的調整，例如
加入octocrylene (OCR)或封裝技術(encapsulation)來降低光裂解的發生。[5-8]
二苯基甲酮類 Benzophenone derivates
Benzophenone-3 (BP-3)和 benzophenone-4 (BP-4)是歐盟認可的防曬成分，具優異
的光穩定性和廣譜性，吸收範圍涵蓋UVA和UVB。[9, 10]因此，他們不但被加在防曬產品
和不同的保養品裡，還使用在塑膠和塗料裡頭來防止光造成的脆化，不過要注意的是，這
需要2個成份合用才有防護UVA的效果。另外，有研究指出，BP-3會進入人皮膚，這是非常
重要的發現，因為BP-3會影響我們的內分泌，在尿液和母乳中也都曾發現它的存在
[11-13]。此外，BP-3和BP-4也有過敏案例發生[14-17]，所以在德國已經不太用這2個成
份了。
對氨基苯甲酸類 p-Aminobenzoate derivates
4-aminobenzonic acid (PABA)是 UVB filter，是最早商業化和受歡迎的防曬成分
[18]，但由於他的光敏性[19,20]，在2008年時已被歐盟禁用。另一衍生物 ethylhexyl
p-aminobenzonic acid (OD-PABA) 也慢慢被其他成分取代了。
水楊酸類 Salicylate derivates
此類代表性成分是 ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS)和 homosalate，是UVB filter。
水楊酸類通常都是弱 UVB吸收劑，主要是加在產品裡頭幫助其他的UVB filter。由於他們
不溶於水，所以有非常好的防水效果。他們通常沒什麼光敏性和致敏性[21,22]，也不會
影響我們的內分泌[23, 24]，EHS只有一點點進入皮膚的能力[25]，加上他的光穩定性，
所以很多產品都會加。
另一衍生物triethanolamine salicylate是水溶性的UV吸收劑，時常加在髮用產品裡
頭。
樟腦類 Camphor derivates
3-benzylidene (3-BC)和 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC)曾經是非常受歡迎
的UVB filter[26]，因為他們有優異的光穩定性。1994年，30%的防曬產品裡頭都有
4-MBC[27]，即使10年後，在2004到2006年，4-MBC依然是主要的防曬成分[28]。但在過去
7年，由於樟腦類可能會影響人體[29-31]而飽受批評，來自各方團體的壓力，例如：
Women in Europe for a Common Future (WECF)和German Friends of the Earth (BUND)
，迫使3-BC和4-MBC幾乎在德國全面停用了。
Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid (TDSA, Mexoryl SX)是UVA filter
，由萊雅在1982年所開發的專利成分。1991年歐盟認可為化妝品成分，2006年也得到FDA
認可。TDSA展現出絕佳的防護UVA效果，例如:預防曬黑、減少皮膚水份蒸發和維持肌膚彈
性[32-34]。此外，TDSA有很好的光穩定性且不會進入皮膚[35]。
肉桂酸類 Cinnamate derivates
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC, octinoxate)是非常受歡迎的UV filter，他
通常會和其他UVB filter 共用而獲得高SPF值。EHMC應避免和BMDBM合用，因為這會使他
們容易發生光裂解反應，除非藉由封裝(encapsulation)修飾，才能改善他們的光穩定性
[36,37]。EHMC被發現可能有雌激素活性(estrogenic activities)[38]且會經皮吸收[39]
，所以在德國，使用量減少得非常多，從1994年的65%防曬產品[27]下降到最近的15%，不
過保養品仍然使用非常頻繁。
Octocrylene (OCR)是UVB filter，由於他極高的光穩定性 (含幫其他成分光穩定，
尤其是BMDBM這小淘氣)，在德國80%的防曬產品中都能見到他。幫BMDBM光穩定的理論是，
當受到光照射時，能量間的轉移可以發生在OCR和BMDBM的激發態(三重態)，BMDBM的能量
轉移給OCR，使BMDBM沒有能量可以放出返回基態(單重態)，所以可以得到穩定的激發態
BMDBM且不產生熱[40]。但由於OCR廣泛的應用，越來越多的證據顯示OCR已經發展成一常
見的光敏性成分[41-44]。
三嗪類 Triazones
最近，UV filter的開發都會參考500分子量理論[45](分子量超過500的分子，越大越
不易進入皮膚)，讓防曬成分更有效也更安全。UVB filter ethylhexyl triazone (EHT)
和diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DEBT, isotrizinol, Uvasorb HEB)，還有廣譜吸
收的UV filter bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT,
bemotrizinol, Tinosorb S)都因為他們連接多個發色團(chromophoric groups)而使分子
量超過500。這些成分展現出高吸收係數，高效防護和高穩定性的功能[46, 47-49]，所以
出現在很多的防曬產品或保養品當中，尤其是Tinosorb S，他還能改善其他成分在產品裡
頭的穩定性[47]。最近，tris-biphenyl triazine (Tinosorb A2B)被納入歐盟化妝品法
規認可的防曬成分清單[50]，這是第一個粒子大小低於100nm被歐盟承認的防曬成分，他
具有易分散和廣譜吸收的優點，尤其有效吸收波長在290nm到340nm，橫跨UVB和UVA範圍，
有別於傳統的純UVB和UVA filter。他也是2005年以來，第一個新加入歐盟清單裡頭的防
曬成分。
苯並三唑類 Benzotriazoles
依據500分子量理論而開發的UV filter還有廣譜性的drometrizole trisiloxane
(DTS, Mexoryl XL)和methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol(MBBT,
Bisoctrizole, Tinosorb M)。因此，他們發生經皮吸收和光過敏反應的可能性都較少
[51,52]。Mexoryl XL是第一個提供UVB和UVA範圍保護的光穩定防曬成分，當和Mexoryl
SX合用時，還能發揮1加1大於2的防護加乘效果[53]。Tinosorb M 製成化學性微細粒子
(organic microfine particles)型態，不但結合了物理性和化學性防曬成分的特性，具
有散射、反射和吸收紫外光功能，且能在水中分散，吸收範圍更從UVB、UVA-I到UVA-II
，擁有非常寬的廣譜性且很穩定[54,55]。
以下是參考資料，可以直接End....
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圖來源:International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 2–30
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