LIZ WARREN
September 28, 2021 2:15pm
https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-innovations/indigo-dye-process-universit
y-of-georgia-water-chemicals-denim-303581/
牛仔布行業轉型成更永續性的行業，技師正在研發更安全的染料方式。喬治亞大學最近發現
一種可減少有害物質且促進更有效率的染料方法。
As the denim industry shifts to become more sustainable, technicians are maki
ng strides in developing safer dyeing solutions. One of the latest innovations c
omes from researchers at the University of Georgia, who recently discovered a pr
ocess for dyeing denim that rids it of harmful chemicals while simultaneously
boosting efficiency.
這個研究是紡織品、室內設計、商品博士候選人Smriti Rai的研究，被刊登在綠色化學期刊
The research was published in the Green Chemistry Journal, and is a part of the
Ph.D. study of Smriti Rai, a doctoral candidate in the university’s department
of textiles, merchandising and interiors.
這種傳統的牛仔布染料改良方法藉由減少靛藍（印度藍染）的有毒物質使用，用奈米纖維木
漿混合後的物質附著在纖維表面，黏著靛藍牛仔布。這種技術可使用大量衣物讓他們減少不
必要的用水。
Though conventional denim dyeing methods involve reducing indigo with toxic ch
emicals prior to dyeing, the new process completely eliminates the use of harmfu
l chemicals by mixing it with nanocellulose fibrils—wood pulp—and depositing
it on the surface of the textile. It essentially “glues” the color in place, m
aking multiple coats and excessive water usage unnecessary.
這個研究顯示新染料方式浸泡一次可保存90％以上的靛藍布色澤，傳統染料方式則要浸泡8
次才能保存70％－80％靛藍布色澤，藍色的窗簾是由靛藍布用量而定。
The study showed that just one coat of the indigo secures over 90 percent of the
color, while conventional methods require up to eight dips in dye solution to
secure between 70 to 80 percent. Shades of blue are determined by the amount of
indigo particles used.
根據共同研究者Sergiy Minko，染料的900億價值，原本不重要的永續性，藉由這種技術對
永續性和環境有很大改善
According to the study’s corresponding author Sergiy Minko, the industry’s $90
billion valuation means even seemingly minor strides in sustainability can tran
slate to big environmental improvements.
Minko說：牛仔布和牛仔褲行業是很大市場，就算小小改良在這行業也能對這行業很大衝擊
。人們開始追求環境友善的產品，並且隨著法規變嚴，紡織業也會跟著慢慢改良。
“Denim and jeans manufacturing are a big market, so even small changes in the i
ndustry could have huge impacts,” Minko said. “There are populations that are
looking for products that are made in environmentally friendly ways. And as regu
lations become tougher, the industry will have to adapt.”
靛藍布給牛仔布一個藍色代表象徵，因為靛藍帶來巨大的物染，生物科技學家發現紡織業帶
來140萬噸二氧化碳排放，並且產生苯、甲醛、氨基納等對人體和環境的有害物質。
Though indigo gives denim its signature blue hue, it considered to be one of the
industry’s biggest sources of pollution. Biotech startup Huue found that indig
o manufacturing produces more than 1.4 million metric tons of CO2 and utilizes
toxic chemicals like benzene, formaldehyde and sodamide, which can be harmful t
o the environment and people.
事實上，根據「國際水見證」組織，在非洲發現了水汙染影響的證據，追求流行讓河流變藍
色，尤其是工廠附近更藍。
In fact, a report from Water Witness International (WWI), a U.K.-based organiz
ation focused on sustainable water resource management, found evidence of water
pollution in certain African countries that support the global fashion supply ch
ain. River flow was tainted with pH comparable to household bleach and a blue co
loration reflective of nearby production sites.
Rai的研究，也許可以讓靛藍布產業帶來綠色未來，其他永續性的染布改良包括使用基因改
造生物製造靛藍物質，為了靛藍布的永續發展
Rai’s research, however, is one of several examples of ways the indigo supply c
hain might have a greener future.
Other sustainable dye improvements include using lab-grown bacteria to create an
indigo dye void of chemicals—a concept used by Huue. Recently, the company par
tnered with biotech firm Ginkgo Bioworks, Inc. to scale production of the sustai
nable indigo dye.
各行各業的投資者注目這些類似的發明，在今年比較早的時候，美國靛藍布供應商Stony Cr
eek Colors投資了900萬在基因改造靛藍布，來減少靛藍布的有害物質
Similar innovations have caught the eye of investors across various industries.
Earlier this year, Stony Creek Colors, a U.S.-based natural indigo supplier, se
cured a $9 million Series B financing round for its BioPreferred-certified plant
-based indigo that’s free of hazardous chemicals.
印度藍染＝靛藍，我喜歡印度藍染，nothisman是CD中的印度藍染